JOURNEY TO EUROTOPIE
Text by Bruce Bégout
Photographs by Philippe Braquenier
PROLOGUE
She woke up twenty minutes before her phone’s alarm was to go off, as often happens when you are stressed out by a meeting that you don’t want to miss. It’s as if your consciousness records the information and then processes it while you sleep. Finga was supposed to be on the 6:25 transnational bus that morning. She tried to make as little noise as possible, so that she wouldn’t wake up her husband, who was still fast asleep. Anyway, he had no intention of getting up to see her off safely. He didn’t want her to go and had been sulking around since the day she had decided to accept the offer she’d received by official letter. An hour later, she was waiting at the Nyírbátor bus stop. It was deserted and battered by a piercing wind. She snuggled deeper into her pink parka. A 1,600 km trip awaited her: more than twenty-four hours on the road before she would finally be there. She studied the sleepy buildings of her city, which she would not see again very soon. Little by little, people were beginning to stir in the streets and houses. The multi-coloured lights on the garbage trucks that had lit the night would soon fade away in the drab and milky dawn. She quickly spotted the small European flag on the truck’s license plate. She’d never noticed it before. The journey was long and gruelling.
She could have flown instead, but that was too expensive and, with the new regulations in effect, the Commission no longer had the right to pay for her travel. She had to get across four countries in the back of a Eurojet bus, her face glued to the window as she is someone who had never ventured outside her region at any time in her thirty-eight years she got her first glimpse of a continent that was, as yet, largely unknown to her. She watched as the mostly rural countryside passed before her, as the same kind of scenery repeatedly came into view: the carefully-maintained fields of green; the slow-moving farming machinery; the archetypal cows that seemed to gaze out at the world with dull and listless stares, as if from behind a window. Here and there, a few children were playing in the yards in front of homes with tidy, well-swept porches. During the ride, she took dozens of pictures (which, in their very banality were as strange and anonymous as the photos taken by Google’s cars), always making the effort to get things in focus, which was not easy to do when traveling at 80 km/hour. In any case, they would give her a way to remember the trip once she was back home in Nyírbátor, seeing her friends again at the Esterházy café.
Finga spent the night in a roadside motel in the west of the Czech Republic.
At around 8:00 that night, she got an SMS from her daughter Krizstina, who wanted to know how things were going. She bought a packaged sandwich and a can of apple juice at the petrol station next door (refusing the €8.50 meal with dessert on offer). She wasn’t all that hungry. She ate her Swedish flatbread with farmed salmon, without really tastingit. In her tiny, standardized motel room, she watched television with the sound on mute—she didn’t understand the language at all—but that made her neck hurt too much. The television had been hung up high in a corner of the room, so its minuscule screen could only be viewed from an uncomfortable position. She picked up the remote control and turned it off. Then, once she had quickly checked her Philos account, she went to bed early, so she could get a good night’s rest and be ready for the big day to come.
The second part of the trip was more enjoyable. This was probably because of her excitement about getting to know the city where she would be working in a completely new position. The German countryside was also more varied and pleasant. There were big modern cities, tiny suburbs where future lifestyles would be invented, and small, traditional villages whose local colour and charm seemed quite unsullied by the war. In fact—and this would remain surprising throughout her long trip—two years after the end of the war, the traces of destruction had almost entirely disappeared. Europe resembled what it had been before the conflict. Of course, there were still some ruined buildings here and there, and the facades of buildings were still pockmarked with impact craters that had not always been fully hidden, but the infrastructure—roads, bridges, interchanges, transmission towers and so on—had all been restored. Everyone wanted to forget the tragic event, the most bloody of the century. The restoration had been quick and effective. No one could have guessed that, in the recent past, Europeans—sometimes even members of the same family—had been tearingeach other apart like wolves that had been starving for years.